Arbutin (hydroquinone) dosage

Arbutin is a glucosylated derivative of hydroquinone, naturally present in several plants, including bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), pear, bilberry, and certain Ericaceae. Used in cosmetics for its brightening, skin-evening, and melanogenesis-regulating effects, arbutin is one of the most closely monitored active ingredients due to its direct chemical relationship with hydroquinone, a molecule strictly regulated by European legislation.

In the cosmetics, nutraceutical, and plant-based sectors, arbutin analysis is used to control the quality, authenticity, and regulatory compliance of extracts and finished products. This analysis is essential to ensure consumer safety, verify active ingredient claims, and prevent any accidental presence of free hydroquinone above permitted levels.

Dosage principle

Arbutin quantification relies primarily on high-precision chromatographic techniques, adapted to complex matrices and regulatory requirements:

• HPLC-DAD (liquid chromatography with UV-Visible detection)
• LC-MS or LC-MS/MS (liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry)

These analytical methods allow:
• reliable quantification of α and β arbutin,
• detection of free hydroquinone even at very low concentrations,
• measurement of impurities or possible degradation products,
• analysis of lipid matrices, aqueous matrices, powders, dry extracts or complex formulations.

The analytical protocol is adapted according to the product: aqueous extraction, polar solvent, filtration, SPE purification, pH adjustment or specific preparation for creams and gels.

Importance of arbutin measurement

In the cosmetics industry, arbutin is considered a strategic active ingredient in depigmenting, anti-dark spot, and skin-evening skincare products. Its concentration must be precisely controlled to guarantee the product's effectiveness without exceeding regulatory limits. The dosage is used to:

• verify the conformity of plant raw materials,
• control the concentrations in the finished products,
• evaluate the stability in the formulations (pH, oxidation, light),
• compare different plant sources or extraction qualities,
• authenticate standard extracts in order to avoid adulteration.

For food supplements and plant extracts, analysis makes it possible to validate the quality of raw materials, particularly in bearberry extracts, which are widely used for their urinary and dermocosmetic properties.

Industrial and regulatory applications

The uses of arbutin assay cover several sectors:

• Cosmetics : brightening serums, anti-dark spot creams, depigmenting treatments, facial lotions.
• Nutraceuticals : standardized bearberry extracts, vegetable capsules, functional products.
• Phytotherapy : control of medicinal plants rich in arbutin.
• Plants and natural ingredients : characterization of crude or concentrated extracts.
• Industrial quality control : verification of stability during processes.

Since hydroquinone is prohibited in cosmetics (except for very specific professional applications), the dosage is mandatory to guarantee that no free hydroquinone is present, nor that it is not released from arbutin under unstable conditions.

Analyzed matrices

YesWeLab's partner laboratories process a wide variety of matrices, including:

• Bearberry, bilberry, and ursinum leaves
• Liquid, glycerinated, or hydroalcoholic plant extracts
• Plant powders
• Skin-lightening creams, serums, lotions, gels, and emulsions
• Food supplements (capsules, tablets, dry extracts)
• Plant-based raw materials for R&D or production
• Technical formulations requiring control of phenolic derivatives

Each matrix receives a customized preparation protocol to ensure optimal arbutin extraction and reliable measurement.

Further analyses recommended

To obtain a complete picture of the quality and stability of arbutin-based extracts, YesWeLab recommends the following additional analyses:

• Free hydroquinone assay
• Total flavonoid assay
• Heavy metals (ICP-MS)
• Pesticides (LC-MS/MS)
• Accelerated stability test (heat, light, oxidation)

YesWeLab Expertise

YesWeLab relies on a network of over 200 partner laboratories selected for their expertise, advanced equipment (HPLC, LC-MS/MS, ICP-MS, GC-MS, spectroscopy), and accreditations (ISO 17025, COFRAC). Each project is directed to the laboratory best suited to the matrix, the analytical method, and the expected regulatory framework.

Our scientific team supports each manufacturer, cosmetic brand or formulator in:
• the choice of the analytical method,
• the interpretation of the results,
• the optimization of formulations,
• regulatory compliance,
• the complete management of the analysis via a simple and intuitive digital platform.

Since 2020, YesWeLab has been supporting many players in the plant, cosmetics and food supplement sectors with their analytical needs, with high responsiveness and personalized technical support.

To learn more or to submit a specific need, contact our team.